Background
Art patron Ethel Scull collected clothes the way she and her husband, Robert, collected paintings: with an eye for innovation tempered by quality. Her eclectic wardrobe of the 1960s sampled works by virtually every important designer of the time. Although known for her avant garde tastes, she also recognized the value of classically conservative clothing. Mainbocher has here provided her with a timeless dinner suit, which conforms to his styling recipe for combining three interesting, contrasting textiles.
Description
Jacket: Camel wool; single-breasted, three-button; waist-length; round collar, notched lapel; bracelet-length, set-in, three-piece sleeve; inset band at chest level; 2" waistband; large camel composition buttons; lined in cream satin.
Skirt: Black wool; below-knee length; lightly gathered in front to 1" waistband; left side zipper closure; lined in camel china silk.
Blouse: Satin; fitted shell; high, rounded notched neck; sleeveless; godets at front and back hem; center back zipper closure; lined in white silk.
Garment structure
The single-breasted jacket has a decorative horizontal 2” band inset above the bust, providing an inconspicuous means of lightly fitting the jacket to the body. The jacket tapers to fit the waist, which is defined by a band of the same dimension as bust.
The bound buttonholes are shaped at the ends so that the buttons will set properly when fastened. The three-panel below-knee length skirt flares lightly at the hem. The skirt is flat-lined, the silk and wool joined by machine-stitching. The hem is hand-finished.
Deceptively simple, the blouse has inset godets at front and back hip level to create fullness. A horizontal pinched tuck defines the front waistline and ensures that it will lie flat. The center back zipper is hand-sewn and extends below the hemline for ease of wear. The lower edge is machine-stitched and left raw to avoid bulk.
Gift of Ethel Scull, 1976.