Background
Revisiting a theme he explored in 1949 for Millicent Rogers, another Best-Dressed List celebrity, Mainbocher created this straightforward interpretation of Tyrolean folk attire for Mary Martin as "Maria Rainer" in the first act of "The Sound of Music." This dress fuses ethnic-style scrolling braid with a contemporary silhouette. The musical opened on November 16, 1959.
Description
Semi-fitted, mid-calf length; round neck, narrow self-ruffle collar; three-quarter length sleeve, gathered cap, elasticized ruffle cuff; draped waistband; circular cut skirt, fuller in back, pleated at waist; braid in looped design centered with row of braid "buttons" on center bodice and around lower skirt; center back zipper closure; lined in grey china silk; cream grosgrain waist stay.
Garment structure
The dress, with its mounting neck and gentrified dirndl skirt, is hand trimmed with scrolling braid in a stylized Tyrolean design. A half circle in width, the skirt is cut with the cross-grain at center front and has a bias seam at center back. Its front is softly gathered and features a shallow, unpressed center front box pleat. From its sides, its fullness explodes toward the center back seam, and is directed by back-facing knife pleats. The draped waistband is sewn onto the dress and shirred at the center back.
In the manner of a backing, the china silk linings were first darted, then applied to the wrong side of the dress and sewn into the seams. The collar and sleeve ruffles have narrow 1/8” machine-stitched hems. All seams are overcast by hand, with a ribbon band at the waist.
Gift of Mary Martin, 1968.