Background
Mainbocher reiterates his love of historicism by blending distinctive elements from multiple centuries. This evening dress is made from an 18th-century style Indienne (a Western version of Indian printed textiles) in a silk paisley print. Its front suggests the format of an 18th-century bodice with stomacher and bows while the cluster of deep pleats at back evokes the cascade of a late 17th-century skirt train. The fur band at the hem of the coordinating bolero adds a sumptuous counterpoint.
Description
Dress: Fitted stomacher bodice; square neck with wide straps, round back neck; natural waist, lower in back; full skirt, grouped knife pleats; curved back hip yoke with four standaway pleats; two self bows on bodice front, curved bottom of stomacher extends below waist seam; left side zipper closure; lined in cream silk
Bolero: Above-waist length; rounded falling collar; elbow-length sleeves with split turn-back cuff; 3" wide fur border at hem; single covered button at neck; lined in cream silk faille.
Garment structure
The dress has a draped, fitted bodice. A single center front panel continues, unseamed, to extend below the waist as a free-floating lunette that is trimmed with two large, soft self-fabric bows. Knife pleats either side of center front control and restrict the skirt fullness. The curved back hip yoke dips to just below the base of spine where it is joined to a panel with four large standaway pleats, which extends to form a slight train.
The dress is lined with silk taffeta and all seams and hems are overcast by hand. The grosgrain waist stay and zipper are hand-sewn.
The short bolero jacket has a rounded turn collar and fastens at the neck with a covered button and button loop. The elbow-length sleeves are finished with split turn-back cuffs.
Gift of Mr. Robert Winthrop, 1986.